Soil Preparation: Garlic will tolerate a wide range of soils but prefers a free-draining loam high in organic matter. If well-rotted manure is not available then a generous application of a general purpose fertiliser such as Growmore should be raked in immediately prior to planting.This should be followed by two further applications of nitrogen (as ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulphate, urea, etc.) in April and May, applied between the rows at a rate equivalent to 15-20 grams of nitrogen per square metre.

Garlic Scapes

Developing Bulbils

Cultivation: All hardneck and some softneck plants will produce a false seedstalk topped by an umbel containing numerous small bulbils. Although opinions differ about seedstalk removal, it is generally believed that bulb yields are higher from plants that have had seedstalks removed than from those left intact. Stalks should not be removed too soon, it is best to wait until the seedhead begins to coil before cutting it off cleanly with a knife as low down the plant as possible. Of course plants can be left intact and bulbils left to form. The bulbils look and taste just like miniature garlic cloves and if planted will germinate and form a `round' or single clove bulb in their first year. The following year these 'rounds' will develop into normal, segmented bulbs which can be harvested in the normal way. Some varieties have a tendency to produce bulbils in the neck of the flower stalk but the bulbils will still mature and can be used in the same way. It is worth noting that the larger bulbils (and small, unusable cloves) can be planted and used to produce what are called `garlic greens' (USA) or `spring garlic' (Spain). Simply plant whatever you have in a dense seedbed and keep well watered. The young plants soon have the appearance of spring onions and can be harvested for use in salads, stir-fries and pesto and can be chopped and sprinkled on soups, potatoes, casseroles, etc. This is an ideal crop for year-round production under glass.

Bulbils forming in the stalk

Diseases: Botrytis Neck Rot, Blue Mould (Penicillium) and Fusarium Base Rot can cause significant losses in both growing and stored bulbs. Land infected by White Rot - a potentially devastating disease of garlic - can take over twenty years to clear, so a five year cycle of crop rotation with unrelated vegetables such as beans, peas, carrots, cabbage or potatoes should, wherever possible, be used. Avoid rotating with related crops such as onions, shallots or leeks. Take care with watering - avoid over-watering particularly late in the day and stop watering once bulbing has finished. Leaf Rust is another disease, typically associated with leeks, that can cause significant losses in garlic. Rust infection is promoted by low light and high moisture levels so avoid shade and maintain close attention to watering. Infected plants should be treated immediately either by removal & burning or by spraying with an appropriate fungicide.